©2005 Paul Posadas
hey zachster this one is for you! first of all, i very much swear by this china-made functional toy that i'm tempted to get another one for color film. the modifications that i've made was cakewalk, i didn't have any problems dismantling the puppy. i don't have any step by step(s), i just want to point out that, 400 rated film is your choice of film to start out with, because of it's wide exposure latitude. 120 film is a dime a dozen out there, i prefer ilford xp2 400 because it requires a quick chromogenic c-41 process, just like color film. the lab up the street from me - "the darkroom" would only have me wait "half an hour". actually it's their "half an hour" wait of me not bending their ears off. it's all good. btw, the going rate on 120 film is avg. $2.25 and for processing "develop only" without a proofsheet is avg. $3.25. next, is to tape the edges of the camera back so you won't get any light leaks. black electrical tape, the kind that won't gunk-out is preferred. you'll also need some precision philips screwdrivers #0 and #1 to remove the tiny screws, 2 which holds the lens housing to the camera back and another 2 that holds down the shutter assembly to the back of the lens housing. there is one and only one screw that would release the lens. the lens is on grooves just like the way a cover to an "old" aluminum 35 mm film cannister is twisted to open. ( i've just remembered..you probably weren't born when they were introduced). anyway, once you've got the lens out, you'll notice the aperture (hole). using a caliper measure the diameter and using a circular file (rat's tail) if you don't have access to a precision drill press. widen up the hole "by 0.40 mm". if you don't have a caliper. widen up the hole till the tip of the rat's tail touches the lens but not to the point of marring the len's surface. cool you are done. what this modification does is allowing a full stop and maybe a stop and a half more in exposure. remember this is a toy so there is really no true f/stop ratios. say, this is primarily important for now on the holga. i recommend the "holga cfn 120". btw, based on someone's site on shortening the 3ft . focusing distance to 2ft. i've done my mod, but i still have the film in the camera, so i don't have any results back. the two photos ABOVE were shot after my modification on the aperture. the shot of the mercedes BELOW was done prior. either ways, you're going to get some great results.
©2005 Paul Posadas
by the way, the shot of the "stout" on the bar counter is making me thirsty. i don't know if you remember "Gorky's Cafe". they use to serve their stuff in the same styled beer glass. check this gal's holga site. i dig her holga material. man, where was i when all this "holga phenomenon" started?
